JACKET_/Post_Archive_Faction_INSPIRED/ELBOW_ARTICULATION_PATTERN_STUDY
Elbow view.
Front view.
3/4 Rear view.
/ FEATURE SET
• Articulated Sleeve with PAF-inspired* elbow, sleeve stylelines and back articulation.
↪ Curved elbow and darted rear shaping.
• Fully lined interior, with dual interior pockets.
• 2-way zip CF closure.
• Zippered hand pockets.
• Deadstock Arc'teryx cotton blend.
Intent/Researching articulation & volume through curves and darts.
Zippered hand pockets.
2-Way CF zipper.
Interior welt pocket with self facing.
Invisible zipper interior pocket.
/ DEVELOPMENT
*Reference > Design > Pattern
PAF 5.0 Brown Jacket
Procreate sketches, exploring texture in face/lining fabrics.
CLO3D Iterations & interior pattern assortment
Working to achieve that perfect fit. Designed in Procreate, patterned in CLO3D, and deadstock cotton blend fabrics acquired via Arc'teryx & OSF.
LIFE TO DIGITAL & BACK
One of many pattern iterations, with incremental developments.
The fit-references, 2 men's S/M zippered overshirts.
.DXF to Ai to A4 printer paper.
Originally a rework of the Agility Trenchcoat to fit a men's small, it quickly evolved into a PAF collared overshirt design study. With workwear influences to matching the textures of the twill Arc'teryx fabric.
CLO3D Simulated fit & pattern, front.
Physical piece.
CLO3D Simulated fit & pattern, 3/4 view with elbow raised.
Physical piece, elbow view.
Process outline, displaying internal intricacies.
// POST MORTEM
Sewn over the course of several days — the biggest mistake being the simplest of all?: Not pre-shrinking the lining. Paired with the grain of the sleeve's curved and darted elbow in the face fabric, the lining's simplified traditional 2-piece sleeve lining and more consistent grain makes the lengths of the sleeve and lining mismatch, causing excess puckering along the forearm.
Pattern: Partially successful, since it's very well fitting — moreso than the reference jackets. Sleeve lengths are perfect when standing, as if a tailored suit jacket that would be paired with a dress shirt's white cuffs to extend below and hit the thumb bone. In short, the sleeves could be longer for a more articulated fit.
Finishing: Partially successful, in that the interior lining is attached well; all the pockets function fully, zipping closed and with the appropriate sizing to fit even the largest modern phones and personal accessories. Domestic sewing machines leave much to be desired with thicker fabrics, but if you don't start counting SPI and stand 2+ft away..? it's damn near perfect.
To Come: Iterating on the Curved elbow, I've begun the 2nd prototype of full length pants and a crossbody pack to flesh out the motif.