3/4 View
Portrait, Closed Collar
Rear 3/4 View
/ FEATURE SET
• Bodycon fit with flattering ruched sides.
• Serpentine figure-8 layered skirt for increased coverage and mobility.*
• Raglan sleeves with bonded hems.
Seamless inseam closure for ease of chamois removal / relieving oneself without all the bulk.
• Zippered mockneck collar for modularity in styling, and more importantly, wind coverage.
Intent/Balancing coverage with mobility & modularity.
Seated side view.
Full body view.
Rear 3/4 view.
Serpentine closure close-up.
For this design, the guiding principals were to develop a commuter/cyclist's skirt focused on mobility and balancing modesty while on the move; particularily while cycling. With a unique figure-8 skirt pattern wrapping around the thighs, and a functional closure for easy chamois donning & doffing without impeding her in any way.
/ DEVELOPMENT OVERVIEWS
Detailed Analyses of construction methodology, order of operations, and material locations with diagrams and clear callouts for manufacturing.
/ 3D CAD + SIMULATION
Procreate sketch & visual intent.
Tech Pack simulation excerpt.
3D Figure-8 simulation.
Knee-up mannequin; digitally collaged.
Digital development validated negative ease concerns and the overall function of the Serpentine, wrap-around skirt with snap closure. The physical development process began with a sleeveless orange fit sample; and like the rest of the A.I.O collection development, my physical-to-digital back and forth.
/ CF CLOSURE COMPARISONS
Simple collar facing in initial mockup...
Appears messy when worn unzipped.
Ease experimentation depicts the difference in order of operations & machining.
Proto 2: Tidy, extended collar facing runs the length of the CF quarter zip.
Melissa operating the fully-faced 1/2 zip CF collar opening.
/ SERPENTINE SKIRT
Cycling attack pose; freedom of movement*
First iterations lack of coverage in the cycling attack pose...
Compared to the next version's 50% improvement.
Surprisingly strong lateral hold to the low profile, colour-matched snap tape.
Inside view of concealed snap tape and inner-thigh placement. More on that in the post-mortem section.
/ 2nD PROTO / FIT , MOBILITY
Walking
Lunging
Lunging Opposite Side
FUTURE DEVELOPMENT // IMPROVED DESIGN CONCEPT
Proto 3 Concept: 3/4 Front View, Transparent
Proto 3 Concept: 3/4 Rear View, Transparent
Proto 3 Concept: Simplified with Sewing Lines Highlighted
// POST MORTEM
While the 2nd, most recent prototype is a solid display sample for my capstone collection and showcase, the problems I sought to resolve were only partially successful. Through a retrospective look at construction methods, fittings and 3D simulations, the above, simplified pattern offers the following key benefits.
1. A more efficient construction method simplifies the complex layers, in turn making the garment easier to wear for the AIO Commuter.
2. An easier-to-access leg closure offers a significantly better-thought-out Serpentine skirt, as its closure moves from between the thighs to the exterior face of the wearer's right thigh
3. Coverage, most importantly, as seen in the SERPENTINE SKIRT section, where a hole is still present when lunging laterally.
*Photoshoot: Partial success, overall — but technically failed due to improper dressing. The final, high quality photos on Melissa were worn improperly, and I missed it at the time. Windbreaker and Trenchcoat turned out great though.